OILS ain't OILS
Danish oil is probably the most user friendly finish on the market. It is easy to apply, penetrates deep, enhances character, is reasonably durable and easily repaired,

Sounds good so far..... well it gets better.

You can make your own! Commercial Danish oils are all made from the same basic ingredients;

- Resin (as in estapol)
- Linseed oil
- Turpentine

You don't need to be a rocket scientist to blend these, trust me!

As a basic recipe, start with varnish (estapol will do) - 4 parts; linseed oil - 1 part; natural turpentine - 6 parts. Mineral turpentine is probably ok, but I've never used it. You can vary this recipe to suit yourself, just keep a record of your changes so that you can duplicate them. More varnish less oil will give a harder, quicker drying mix. More oil and less varnish will give a better penetrating, but slower drying, softer mix. A better quality, faster drying, harder Danish oil can be made by substituting tung oil and white spirit for linseed oil and turpentine. All these ingredients are compatible. Danish oil with tung oil or linseed? I can't say that I prefer one to the other, they are both good.

APPLICATION:
If you've used commercial Danish oil then the application is the same. If not, read on. I use cheap artist's mops, 8s to 11s for lathe work. Flood the surface with oil and leave for 10 - 15 minutes (the first application will probably soak in completely). Then wipe off any excess. If the oil has begun to dry and is tacky, don't panic, wipe on more oil, then wipe off. The second and third applications are as the first with the following exception. When wiping off the excess, leave enough oil on the surface to give a slightly wet look. The number of coats depends on the wood and the finish you want to achieve. Sand between coats with 320 grit or finer.

Drying time depends on your mix, as quick as a couple of hours to 24 hours (more oil, slower drying). Don't leave oily rags around your workshop or home as they are a fire hazard...Happy finishing

Ken Pickering